University of Vermont

Japanese 095

June 22, 2006

 

John Canning

 

 

Japan is an amazing place to visit.  Its geography varies from fields to steep mountains, from plains to rocky or sandy ocean shores.  Japan is comprised of a series of volcanic islands.  The mountains in the center squeeze the majority of the 127 million people living in Japan to the coastal parts of the country, thus making this country seem even more crowded.

Japan has a reputation for being a very expensive place to visit. Depending on where you stay and eat, this can be very true.  At the same time, the most fascinating and wonderful things about Japan are either free or inexpensive.

This document is an attempt to prepare you for your first trip to Japan.  It should help you plan your trip, purchase and use a Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass), find your way around using public transportation, and help you find those amazing and wonderful treasures.

The online version of this document can be found at:

Right up front, I'll tell you that people in Japan do not expect tips.  It is also considered rude to count your change or to leave some of it behind (that implies that the person helping you is either untrustworthy or has made a mistake).

However, if you meet an amazing person, and I'm sure you'll meet many, you may want to give them a small gift, such as a postcard from Vermont, a baseball card, or a piece of American candy.  Giving a gift will often result in a gift being given back to you. I didn't know this at first and was confused as to why the person sitting next to me on the train was handing me a small bag of red pickled cabbage.

The easiest way to get to Japan is to fly right out of Burlington International Airport (BTV).  Most of the major carriers (United, Delta, Continental, Northwest) provide flights with only one or two stops.  These airlines provide service to the main gateway to Japan, Narita International Airport (NRT).

When you fly out of Burlington, you will need to change planes at a gateway city, such as Chicago or Newark.  From the eastern coast of the US, it is typically a thirteen to fourteen hour flight to Japan, depending on the headwinds.  The headwinds turn into tailwinds on the way home and can shorten the flight by an hour or more.  Flights from and to the west coast take between nine and eleven hours, again depending on the winds.

When you travel from the United States to Japan, you will cross the International Date Line.  Flights to Japan usually leave the US in late morning and arrive in Japan the following day in the afternoon.  Return flights depart Japan in the afternoon and arrive back in the United States on the same day at about the same time.

Several airlines also provides flights into Kansai International Airport (KIX), which is located just outside of Osaka, or Nagoya International Airport (NGO), which is located in the center of Japan.  Flights through KIX are often cheaper than flights through Narita.  KIX also offers discounted rail passes which are useful if you have very specific travel plans.

When you fly internationally, you are often allowed a stop over on the way in or out of the country at no additional charge. For example, if you don't want to spend fourteen hours in a plane all at once, you could arrange for a stopover on the west coast and spend a day or two in Los Angeles, San Francisco, or Seattle.

Right now, a cheap round trip coach ticket from Burlington to Narita runs about $1,100 after taxes, while the more typical price is about $1,500.  Frequent flyer seats are difficult to find, unless you use the "anytime" awards which require two to three times the number of typical miles/points for a free seat.  A business class ticket can run upwards of $8,000.  Some coach tickets can be upgraded to business class using miles (usually the more expensive ones rather than the cheaper fares); some people consider this a better use of miles.

To secure an inexpensive ticket, purchase your ticket about three months in advance.  If you purchase it much further in advance, the airlines will often not have any cheap fares loaded into their system.  If you are visiting Japan at an unpopular time (February), you may also find cheap fares at the very last minute.  Depending on the airline, it may be cheaper to travel mid-week or on the weekends.

Thanks to Jet Blue, it is very easy to get to Kennedy Airport in New York City (JFK).  From JFK, there are numerous direct flights to Japan.  Because of the competition, fares are often less expensive, especially if tickets are purchased in advance.

Travel agencies and tour operators will frequently offer reduced price tickets from New York to Japan.  For example, current promotional fares are between $689 and $839 for coach and $3,500 to $5,000 for business class.

Here are three web sites that offer reduced fares:

The last two companies can also help you secure a JR Pass.

Airlines are very strict when it comes to weight restrictions on baggage.  Be sure to check with your airline about the baggage requirements before you begin packing for your trip.

On a recent international trip, I was allowed to bring two bags and each bag had to weigh less than 50 pounds.  A year ago, the maximum weight allowed was 70 pounds!  In other words, leave the larger suitcases at home.

You will also be allowed to bring two carry-on bags - a small suitcase or knapsack and a personal bag such as a briefcase or purse.  I strongly recommend packing a change of clothes, some basic toiletries, and any medicine in your carry-on bag.

During the flight to Japan, you will be fed a lunch when you take off, some noodles five or six hours later (if you are awake), and a simple breakfast just before landing.  You will be flying into the sun for the entire trip, so you will be asked to close your window shades after lunch so people can watch the movie or get some sleep.  The flight attendants are hoping that you'll fall asleep at some point during the flight and remain sleeping for as long as possible.

On the trip home, you will fly into darkness and then catch up with the sun as it rises on Alaska or the western provinces of Canada.  You will be served dinner as you leave, noodles mid-trip, and a really light lunch just before you land.

In an effort to combat jet lag and to keep from becoming dehydrated, you should drink at least one glass of water or juice every hour.  Sleep experts recommend avoiding caffeine and alcohol.  I also strongly recommend getting up and walking around the plane each hour when you are not sleeping.  For this reason I recommend asking for an aisle seat.

During a typical flight to Japan from the east coast, you will fly north into Canada towards the North Pole.  If you were flying to Hong Kong, you would fly within a hundred miles of the North Pole itself.  Instead, you will fly over the Canadian Rockies and parts of Alaska.  The things that look like roads or dirty rivers are actually glaciers.

Most people find that their feet swell while on long flights.  Walking around helps reduce the swelling. Loosening your shoes, or wearing sandals, can make you a lot more comfortable.  If you decide to take your shoes off, be sure to put them back on before walking around the airplane or visiting the bathroom.

When your plane finally lands in Japan, you'll be quite tired. However, it will be mid-afternoon in Japan and hopefully nice and sunny.

The first thing you must do after leaving your plane is clear immigration.  Follow the crowds to the immigration center.  You should have received and filled out the necessary immigration forms on the plane.  If you did not, there are counters where you can get additional forms and complete them.

As with most airport immigration centers, there will be one line for Japanese citizens, another for airline crew members, and a third for foreigners or, in this case, aliens.  You will wait in a long, but fast moving line, and then directed to an immigation official who will review and stamp your passport.  A "temporary visitor" visa will be inserted into your passport; it is an index card that will be removed once you leave Japan.

The next step is to collect your luggage.  I always love this part as it's when I finally realize I am in Japan. There will be airline employees at the luggage carousel who will help you find and remove your luggage.  They are helpful, polite, and friendly.  If for some reason your luggage is not there, they will apologize profusely and quickly make arrangements to locate and deliver your luggage.

The last step is to clear customs.  On my first trip, they checked my luggage quite carefully (and found a ton of maple syrup).  On subsequent trips, I've just been waved through customs.  For the most part, the customs officials want to make sure that you are not bringing in any fruit or vegetables, or any illegal substances (such as Sudafed).

Once you clear customs, you will walk out into the lobby of the airport.  There will be money exchange counters, restaurants, ATMs, shops, etc.  If you are in a rush, look for and follow the green JR signs.  If you are planning on using a JR Pass, you will need to stop at the JR travel office to validate your pass. You will see signs (often made of folded cardboard) once you get closer to the JR station.

The train station in Narita Airport is located underneath the terminal buildings.  Escalators and elevators will deliver you most of the way to the proper level.  If you are using a JR Pass, you will need to validate your pass and get tickets for the Narita Express.  There is a rather small JR travel office that handles JR Passes and ticketing; just keep an eye out for green JR signs.  

You can also take buses, local trains, and taxis to downtown Tokyo, but due to traffic or stops, they will take a lot longer.

 

 

Japan has an amazing system of public transportation.  You can get to just about anywhere by train, subway, and/or bus.  Signs frequently contain English station names.  Schedules and maps for the most popular routes are also available in English. Trains run on-time; trains are cosidered late if they arrive at a destination more than 15 seconds after the posted schedule!

Some towns and cities also have local/private rail companies and subways.  The JR Pass will not work on these trains or on buses.

Tickets for trains and subways are purchased in advance and the fares are based on the distance you plan to travel.   With buses, the fare is usually based on the distance traveled and is paid as you leave the bus, although fixed fare buses are becoming more common.

Train travel in Japan can be expensive.  However, if you are visiting Japan as a tourist, you can purchase a Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) that will allow you to use almost all of the JR trains and ferries for free.  The JR Pass must be purchased in the United States before you depart for Japan; it is not for sale in Japan.  A JR Pass lasts for either 7, 14, or 21 consecutive days.

The JR Pass is an excellent deal.  The basic seven day pass costs much less than round trip train tickets from Narita Airport to Tokyo and then Kyoto.

Once you arrive in Japan, you must activate your JR Pass. You can do this at major train stations, including the main airports.  Once you've activated your JR Pass, you can board local trains without tickets.  On express or Shinkansen trains, you need a reservation and seat assignment, which can be secured for free at any JR ticket office.

The JR Pass is quite useful in Tokyo.  While Tokyo has a subway system that does not honor the JR Pass, JR trains provide almost as much access to Tokyo as the subway system. The JR Pass can also be used on ferry boats, such as the one that connects Hiroshima to the island of Miyajima.

Trains in Japan offer two classes of service: ordinary and green car.  Green car is slightly roomier and quieter than ordinary, but it costs more.  Even the most cramped ordinary car is much roomier than any plane or bus in the United States.

You should purchase your JR Pass before leaving the US. The prices for the pass are pretty static.  While the prices on the Japan Rail web site are listed in Yen, the US prices are rarely adjusted for currency fluctuations.

You can purchase the JR Pass from local travel agencies or on the web from JTB USA or Kintetsu International (the same travel agencies that offer discounted air fares to Japan).

The current prices for ordinary adult JR Pass are:

Children under six do not require a pass; children aged six to eleven (inclusive) are half price.  Green car (first class) passes are about 35% more expensive than the ordinary JR Passes.

When you purchase your JR Pass, you will receive a voucher that can be turned into a the actual JR Pass once you get into Japan.

You must validate your JR Pass before you can use it. Typically, you would do this at the airport so that you can take the train to your hotel.

When you enter the JR ticket office to validate your pass, you will start by filling out a little piece of paper with your name, passport number, and the name and address of your first hotel.  They use the hotel information to book you the necessary train tickets.

When you validate your JR Pass, the JR staff person will take your voucher and fill out a JR Pass card for you; it's a bit larger than a US passport.  It will contain a start and ending date, your name, and passport number.  You will need to have the JR Pass with you whenever you want to use a train (or cut through a train station).

After validating the pass, be sure to get seat reservations and tickets for your first train ride.

You should also ask for the English-language Railway Timetable. It has schedules for all Shnkansen, Limited Express and airport shuttle trains, along with a map showing the different routes and an index into the schedules.  At the back of the book, you'll find details about tickets, fares, etc.

Whenever you enter a train station, there is a common lobby and then a row of turnstiles.  You must have a ticket or JR Pass in order to get past the turnstiles.

You can board any local JR train with your JR Pass.  When a conductor comes by, show your pass and you'll be all set.

Most of the trains listed in the English-language Railway Timetable require reservations.  You can make these reservations at most train stations; just look for the JR ticket office.  In some stations, the ticket office doubles as a travel agency, in which case they can help you with hotel reservations as well.  JR owns a series of hotels, all conveniently located near the train stations; the JR Pass provides you a 10% discount at these hotels.

Most of the JR ticket agents speak some English.  To facilitate the transaction, I would always write down my request on a piece of paper.  I would write down my destination, train number or departure time, and that I wanted no smoking.  I would write in all upper case using my best attempts at block letters.  On rare occasions, the train would be full and, after what I thought was a lengthy apology, the agent would book me on the next train.

Additional information about riding trains in Japan can be found here:

Information about other types of Rail Passes in Japan can be found here:

Train and subway stations are very well organized but often also very large and busy.  Most stations have more than one exit.  The exits are usually named for their direction - North exit, South exit, etc.  When you receive directions from a station, make sure you know which exit you need to take.  Since some stations can span several city blocks, leaving from the wrong exit can put you quite far away from your destination.

The trains and subways that pull into the station arrive and depart from specific tracks.  A sign board near the turnstiles will tell you which trains are about to arrive at which tracks.  In larger stations, the signs will be in both Japanese and English; in smaller stations, you will have to look for the train number and then the track number (hint - train numbers can be pretty large, while track numbers are usually 1 or 2 digits long at most).

Once you get down to the track, you will see large signs everywhere that proclaim the name of the station in Japanese and English.  On either side of these signs will be the names of the next station in each direction.  These station names will be spelled in Hiragana and English.  Sometimes, the station names will also be spelled out in Korean.  Showing the previous and next stations is very helpful, especially when you want to head in a specific direction.

If you arrive at your track a bit early, you can always do some shopping or eating.  I've had some of the best udon noodle soup at various train stations.  Just look for the line of people...

On more than one occasion, I've arrived at my track a few minutes early.  To my surprise a train would pull in.  I learned to pay attention, because trains run on time; they are not early, they are not late.  Instead, the early train was in fact an earlier train that was scheduled to use the same track, only two or three minutes before my train.

When you arrive at your track, you will notice a raised bumpy bit of yellow plastic.  This is the safety line; it's advised to stay behind that line, especially when a Shinkansen train is pulling into the station (they move rather quickly).

You will also notice numbers and signs for entrances embedded in the floor.  Experienced riders queue up to the side of these signs in the floor.  This way, when the train pulls into the station, they are in line to get on, but not blocking the way of the people trying to get off the train.

Every large city in Japan has an extensive network of subway and/or trolleys that can get you almost any place you need to go.  If, for some reason, the subway or trolley doesn't go all the way, then it will take you to a waiting bus that can get you the rest of the way (bus, subway, and train schedules are carefully coordinated).

When you enter a subway station, you will need to purchase a ticket for your journey.  There will be a large map of the subway system above the ticket machines.  It will indicate various stops and the cost of getting there from here.  

Once you know where you are going and how much it will cost, you can purchase a ticket.  On most subway ticket machines, you can press a button that will force it to speak English.  I seem to remember this button being in either the upper left or upper right hand corner of the machine.

Once you have your ticket, you can pass through the turnstiles and board your subway.  As with train stations, the subway stations each have signs that clearly state the name of the station, as well as the next and previous stations.  In most cases, the station names will be spelled out in Kanji, Hiragana, English, and sometimes Korean.

Most cities and towns have an extensive bus network.  Riding a bus through a city can be a real experience as you will see a wide range of businesses, houses, schools, power plants, stadiums, and factories, in a very short period of time.  Riding it through a rural town is equally exciting, but you'll get to see houses, farms, and fields instead.

Some bus routes charge a flat fee while others charged based on distance traveled.  If you take one of the popular routes in Kyoto, you now pay a flat fare for the ride as you board the bus.

When the fare varies by distance, you will receive a piece of paper when you board the bus.  This piece of paper has a number on it that corresponds to where you boarded the bus.  At the front of the bus is a sign (think of being in a bingo parlor) that has numbers down the left hand side and prices to the right. As the bus travels along, the prices for each number continue to increase.  When you exit the bus, you pay the fare that's lit up next to your number.

Like trains, the bus routes are numbered. In some cities, the buses are monitored and they have a display that shows how long it will be before a bus on a specific route will arrive at the bus stop.

Buses are also a popular way to travel between cities.  Although I have never traveled in this fashion, I've been told that the night buses are particularly popular.  You board the bus in the evening and it travels along the highways to your destination while you sleep comfortably in your reclining seat.  These buses are much roomier than a bus in the US and many of them sell refreshments on board.

Taking a taxi to your destination can be quite the experience. In many instances, it's like traveling via roller coaster.

Your driver will wear white gloves; the door to the taxi opens automatically.  You step in, somehow your driver figures out where you want to go, and then you blast off on your trip.

Street addresses in Japan are just plain weird and not very helpful.  Supposedly, this is because buildings are numbered in the order they were built.

Instead, when someone wants to tell you how to get to their house or business, you will be given a small map that shows you the path from the nearest subway or train station, or bus stop.  I learned the hard way that these maps contain the main streets and not the many smaller side streets that you will pass on your way to your destination.

Right now, the Yen is worth a bit less than one penny.  As a result, when you look at prices, you'll certainly get sticker shock.  If you drop in a decimal point so that the price now looks like dollars and cents, you will have a much better approximation of the price of the item.

Over the past year, the exchange rate has varied from 100 Yen to the dollar to 120 Yen to the dollar.  When it takes more than 100 Yen to buy a dollar, I find the easiest way to think about this is to pretend you are getting about an X% discount, where X% is the number of Yen above 100 that it takes to purchase a dollar.

For example, if the it takes 110 Yen to purchase a dollar, then you can pretend you are getting about a 10% discount (technically, it's a 9% discount).  If an item costs 12,000 Yen, that converts to $120 with a 10% discount (you save $12), which yields a final price of $108 (technically, it's really $109).

You can purchase travelers' checks as Yen or dollars.  Locally, I've found that very few places (local banks and AAA) have Yen travelers' checks in stock, but they can get them with sufficient notice.

You can cash travelers' checks at some hotels and most banks.  Some banks open as early as 8 A.M., others won't open until 10 A.M.  Banks are a very formal affair.  You will need to fill out a form when cashing a travelers' check that includes your name, hotel and address, and passport number.  You will also be asked to specify how many of each denomination you want (although I usually leave that part blank).  Most likely, the teller will also ask to see your passport.

Once you fill out the form and turn in your passport, the fun begins.  In an efficient bank, the teller will finish the paperwork, punch some stuff into the computer, and dispense your cash.  At other banks, four or five people will inspect your form, passport, and count out your cash before you finally receive it.

With the advent of the international ATM network, I no longer use travelers' checks.  Instead, I just withdraw money as I need it from the many ATM machines scattered around Japan.

Some ATM machines have hours and will be closed in the evening; this can happen even with machines that are located outside and appear available all the time.

Most hotels, airports, and train stations have ATMs.

If you have an American Express card and run into trouble, they can help bail you out.  American Express has offices in Tokyo and Kyoto, as well as branches in most smaller cities. American Express can withdraw money from your checking or saving accounts and facilitate wire transfers from the United States.

The fancier pay phones have LCD displays; these phones can speak English.  Just look for the button labeled English and press it.  You will the be guided step by step through the process of making and ending a phone call.

Over the past twenty years, the number of pay phones in Japan has been cut in half.  Many visitors are now purchasing temporary cell phones from convenience stores...

Hotels can be very expensive or very inexpensive.  While a higher price almost always guarantees a high quality room, there are many decent, clean, and affordable hotels throughout Japan.  The important thing to remember is that space is at a premium in Japan, so hotel rooms are typically much smaller than the ones you will find in the US.

Most hotels base the room rate on the number of people staying in the room.  For example, the JR Hotel in Nagano charges 8,000 Yen per night per person (or approximately $80 per night per person).

Modern hotels can be very fancy.  For example, you will be able to control all of the lights and the TV from a remote control/console located near the bed.  They also have a heating coil behind the mirror that keeps it from fogging up when you take a shower.

My favorite place to stay in Japan is the Matsubaya Inn in Kyoto. It is three blocks away from the main train station and is owned and operated by a friendly woman named Kimiko Hayashi.  While she speaks only Japanese, she has this amazing talent for understanding foreigners from anywhere in the world and communicating answers to them to all of their questions.  Staying here is like staying at a very modest Ryokan with very affordable rates.  In addition, they have a computer in the lobby, a well stocked cooler, and a washer and dryer for the guests.  The rooms do not have their own bathrooms, but they are located throughout the inn.

There are several basic types of hotels in Japan:

 

Most Ryokans will also offer you the chance to soak in hot tub.  You should shower and wash before getting in the tub; never bring any soap or clothing into the tub.

Typical hotels are similar to the ones you will find here in the US.  For example, the Japan Rail companies own a chain of hotels across Japan, all conveniently located near their train stations. Unlike chains in the US, the JR hotels are all unique in their design and furnishings.  The travel offices at most train stations can help you make a reservation for any JR hotel.  You can also call them yourself; I've learned that most of the JR Hotels have staff members that speak English.

Many western chains can also be found in Japan, including Hilton, Marriott, Sheraton, and Westin.  These hotels are usually much more expensive that the more basic Ryokan or the inns represented by the Japanese Inn Group.

Love hotels can be rented by the hour and are useful for couples that want to spend time together without sharing their intimacies with the rest of the family.

Supposedly, if you rent a room at a love hotel around midnight, you can stay in the hotel until morning.  I've never visited a love hotel, so I can't say for sure.

Love hotels are very gaudy in appearance.  They use lots of neon and flashing lights in their signs and the notion of love or companionship is spelled out very clearly, and in English, on their signs.

Capsule Hotels are located near train stations.  They are typically used by Japanese Businessmen who miss their last train or who are too drunk to travel home. When you stay in a capsule hotel, you will be assigned to a capsule which is about 8' deep and 3' square.  You will have a low bed with a reading light and TV mounted in the ceiling.

At one point, these hotels were quite inexpensive, but this is no longer the case.

Tokyo is a gigantic and very busy city.  Over 12 million people live in the 844 square miles of Tokyo and another 20 million live in the metropolitan area directly surrounding Tokyo.

You can learn about other means of transportation in Tokyo by pointing your browser at:

The Yamanote Line stops at some of the most interesting parts of Tokyo, including:

This is the main train station in Japan.  Many of the Shinkansen trains start or end their journeys at this station.  The station itself is a gigantic old red brick building.  The various halls play host to an ever changing set of exhibitors and fairs. However, most (all?) of the train tracks themselves are located underground.

Access to the tracks occurs from two main levels. There are plenty of escalators connecting the different levels and even more signs that will point you in the right direction.

In addition to the trains, you will find JR ticket offices, travel agents, restaurants, food vendors, book stores, convenience stores, and plenty of other commercial entities designed to keep you busy.

The Imperial Palace and Gardens is home to the Japanese Emperor and his wife.  It is only a few blocks away from this station.  Guests are welcome to visit the outer grounds on most days.  The inner grounds are only open to visitors during certain holidays.

Ueno station is across the street from Ueno Park. This is a great place to view the cherry blossoms in the spring.

Yurakucho Station is several blocks from the Ginza shopping district and the main Kabuki Theater.

The Ginza shopping district plays home to many large stores, including a 4-floor Sony showroom (get there early unless you want to fight the teenagers for access to the latest games and computers).

You can purchase a real ticket to a Kabuki play; expect to sit still for six to eight hours.  Or, you can sit  in the gallery way upstars and view a shorter portion of the show.  Because Kabuki is performed at a snail's pace, don't expect much to happen during your visit.

Harajuku Station offers a host of shopping experiences and is also a short walk from the Meiji Shrine.

Akihabara is known as electric town.  You can get any electronic gismo ever made including many that you've never seen before. This station is one of those where exiting the wrong exit will put you quite far away from your destination. If you like trains, this station is only a few blocks away from the JR Shinkansen museum.

Shinjuku Station is home to the Odakyu Electric Railway. They host a tourist information center near the west exit of the station that offers a host of excursions to the beach, mountains, and Mt. Fuji in particular.

Shimbashi station appears to be in a very boring part of Tokyo.  However, Shimbashi station is the closest train station to the Tsukiji Fish Market.  This place comes alive in the middle of the night and by 9 or 10 in the morning, is in the process of closing up.

The Tsukiji Fish Market is the gateway for most of the fish that comes into Japan.  Gigantic tuna fish are lined up on the floor for auctions that begin each morning around 5 A.M.  Earlier in the morning, smaller fish, from eel to puffer fish, are auctioned off.  Once the auction is complete, the winning vendors cart off their fish to their individual stalls where they gut, clean, and package the fish.  The part of the market that is furthest from the water is filled with trucks, waiting to take the fish all over Japan so that it can be served at lunch or sold in the local grocery stores and fish markets.

The auctions are an amazing thing to watch, but don't try to understand what's being said.  The auction folks speak their own language, and it's not Japanese or English.

Tokyo is divided by the Sumida River.  The river is crossed by a number of famous and unique bridges.  You can take a one hour Sumida River Cruise (all in Japanese) that will take you under all of these bridges.  Even though the presentation is in Japanese, you'll be given an English cheat sheet that explains what's going on and what's important.

The Odakyu Electric Railway offers a series of passes that make it easier for you to enjoy the ocean, Mt. Fuji, and the hot springs (onsen), located in and around Hakone and Kamakura.

Kyoto translates to "old capital" and is also called the "capital of capitals."  It was originally named Heiankyo and was then named the capital city of Japan around the year 800.  When Tokyo/Edo began functioning as a capital, Kyoto was known as Saikyo for  a short time (western capital).  Kyoto is also well known for its kimono weavers and is considered the permier center of kimono manufacturing.

Kyoto is a fun city to explore on foot.  The tourist office in the train station can provide written instructions on "Walking Tours" that will guide you to the numerous temples, galleries, and shops.  Most of the walking tours begin by instructing you to take a bus to a certain stop; the bus drivers are used to tourists and will help you find your destination even if they can't speak English.

Kyoto is a useful hub for exploring other parts of Japan. Osaka, Kobe, Nara, and even Hiroshima, make excellent day trips from Kyoto.

The many temples are the reason I enjoy Kyoto the most.  When you go in search of a temple, you will be walking along a street lined with shops, offices, and houses.  The entrance to the temple might be rather grand (such as the steps up to Kiyomizu Temple) or rather well hidden.  In either case, once you enter the temple, you are immediately transferred from modern and busy Japan to a different time and place.  It's peaceful, beautiful, and very relaxing.  Most temples require you to pay a modest fee (between 300 and 1,000 Yen).  Sometimes, you are asked to pay an additional fee to gain access to an inner garden or special part of the temple; I've always found these inner sanctums to be quite pretty and fascinating.

When you pay your entrance fee to a temple, you will be given a small brochure that explains the history of the temple and provides a map of the grounds; be sure to get the one that's in English.

This next section outlines two walking tours that you can conduct on your own.  I strongly recommend getting proper directions for both walking tours from the tourist information center in the Kyoto Train Station.

As you make your way through the grounds, you will descend gracefully down the hill so that you can see how large and grand the temple is and how it more or less floats on the side of a very steep hill.  At the base of the hill are several jets of running water that gives this temple its name.  People will wait patiently in line to touch this water and it is treated much like holy water in the catholic church.

Take the 100 or 206 bus from Kyoto Station and then get off the bus at either Kiyomizu-michi or Gojo-zaka.  From there, follow the crowds as they walk up the hill towards the temple (you won't see any of the temple until you are half way up the hill).

As you leave this temple and head down the hill, stay to your right (when you came up the hill, you came from the other street on the left).  This will take to a series of restaurants.  It then connects to a cobble stone path that leads you through the Gion District. This area is frequented by Geishas (often ones that are just training).

To get back to the Kyoto train station, look for a bus stop.  The buses that are returning to Kyoto Station will state this fact in both Japanese and English.

To get to this temple, take bus number 101 or 205 from the Kyoto station; when you leave the gates of the temple, turn right and walk for about fifteen minutes until you reach the entrance to the Ryoanji Temple.  Along the way, be sure to visit the various art galleries that you will pass along the way.

The Kyoto Train Station itself is an attraction that can keep me busy for hours on end.  The eleven story building is open at both sides allowing fresh air and the elements to come crashing in to the center of the station.  It has an eleven story escalator on the right hand side of the building, a large museum and theater on the left hand side, and houses a very fancy hotel in the center.  The right hand side is also houses eleven stories of stores and restaurants (most of the restaurants are on the two upper floors).

When you enter the Kyoto train station, you can go up one or two stories and cross over the tracks.  When you decend on the other side of the tracks, you will come across Kyoto's famous dumpling store on your right; just look for the line of people.

When you leave Kyoto station, you can cross the street above ground or below ground.  If you go below ground, you'll be in a gigantic underground shopping mall, which is also home to the main subway station.

To get to the market, to the JR Sagano Line to the Saga-Arashiyama station.  It's a five minute walk to the market.  To take a boat tour, you can continue on the JR Sagano Line to Kameoka.  Or, you can take the Romantic Train.

The Sagano Romantic Train follows the river from Arashiyama to Kameoka.  Weather permitting, you will ride in an open car through the winding river and the stunning canyons.  The rain departs Torokko Saga Station, which is in the same building as the JR Saga-Arashiymam Station.  The one way ticket costs 600 Yen.

Just to the west of the Arashiyama station is large green house filled with orchids.  I don't know if it's still open to the public but it was quite fascinating.

Also near Arashiyama Market is a famous Kimono gallery, store, and manufacturing facility.  Visitors are allowed to view the artists painting the fabric as well as meet designers. If you have the time and money, you can also try on and purchase custom fitted kimonos.  I hope to find a specific name and directions to this place at some point in the near future.

Nara was Japan's first permanent capital and was originally called Heijo.  The city is about an hour from both Kyoto and Osaka and is home to many historic sites including some of the oldest Buddhist temples.  Nara is also well known for its deer that walk along the streets and expect humans to feed them.

Hiroshima is located on the western side of Japan and is a five hour Shinkansen train ride from Tokyo, or a two and a half hour ride from Kyoto.

Hiroshima was leveled in 1945 by the first atomic bomb that was detonated one mile above the center of the city.  Today, the people of Hiroshima and its goverment are champions for world peace.

The building that was directly underneath the atomic bomb was hosting a trade show at the time of the bombing.  The remains of this building forms the one end of Hiroshima's Peace Park.  The other end contains a memorial museum.  In between is large open space and a Memorial Cenotaph.  The cenotaph contains the names of the over 250,000 people who died as a result of the atomic bomb.  New names are added each year as people continue to die from the after effects of the bomb.

Just south of Hiroshima is the island of Miyajima.  It is home to the famous floating tori gate, several shrines, lots of restaurants, stores, and deer.  The highest point on the island is Mount Misen and you can hike up its 1,500 meters (a tad shorter than Mt Mansfield) or take a rope toe (cable car).  You can easily spend an hour or two walking around the top of Mount Misen as there are a number of shrines located there.  The top of the mountain is also a favorite spot for wild red faced monkeys to hang out.

To get to Miyajima, take the JR express train south to the Miyajima station.  Just down the street is the ferry dock.  There are two ferries that operate from this dock.  If you have a JR Pass, take the JR Ferry, as its free.

Much of Kobe was destroyed in 1995 by a very powerful earthquake. However, if you visited today, you'd never know this.  Kobe is world famous for its tender and flavorful beef.  The cattle are hand massaged on an almost continuous basis; their coats are brushed with sake; they are fed beer in the summer.

Kobe is quick train ride from Kyoto or Osaka and a fun place to explore. Just across from the train station is a building filled with restaurants that feature their locally grown beef (be prepared to spend a fortune).

Osaka is a busy and popular city in Japan.  When it was connected to the Shinkansen line, they built a new train station on the outskirts of the city.  The new station is called Shin-Osaka Station; the original station is called Osaka Station.  The two stations are connected by train, subway, bus, and taxi.

Right next to the old station is the Umeda Sky Building. It consists of two sky scrapers that are connected at the top by a large bridge.  The bridge houses an observatory and restaurant.

One of the most scenic train rides through the alps goes from Nagano to Kyoto.

Nagano hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics and is right in the middle of the Japanese Alps.  It is now just a one hour Shinkansen train ride from the center of Tokyo.  

In addition to hosting the Olympics, Nagano is famous for sukiyaki, soba noodles, and the spices (featuring wasabi) that people like to put on rice.

The JR hotel located next to the train station is an affordable place to stay and Nagano makes a good place from which to explore the rest of the Japanese Alps.

Like the United States, Japan has lots of interesting musuems. Also like the United States, people frequently wonder why certain museums exist.  If you enjoy those types of museums, be sure to check out the list of Japan's most quirky museums:

The most famous museum apparently is located in Beppu.  An avid collector decided to open his private collection to the public in 1980, thus turning his private hobby into a thriving business.  The musuem features dildos, costumes (cosplay), sculptures, art work (like vases), cartoons, and videos.

The center of the city is usually the train station.  Nearby, you will find one or more department stores.  Most of the department stores house grocery stores in their basements.

Restaurants can be found just about anywhere.  Most restaurants display their foods using plastic models.  Prices are clearly spelled out.  Some "fast food" restaurants require you to purchase a ticket from a vending machine outside the restaurant. You give that ticket to the chef who then prepares your meal. As a reminder, there is no tipping in Japan.

More formal restaurants offer ala carte type menus as well as "set meals."  A set meal provides dinner, coffe, and dessert. I've seen set meals consist of eleven amazing courses served over the span of two hours and others that come all on one tray and feature a very small glass of water.

In Tokyo, restaurants are frequently located beneath the train tracks of the Yamanote Line.  Aside from the noise, I've had some great meals there.

You will also find fast food type restaurants located right on the tracks in the train stations.  I've had some great bowls of soup while waiting for my train.

Many toilets in Japan can be flushed two ways.  If you turn the handle one way you will get a big flush; the other way will give you a little flush.

When you flush many toilets, water will spurt out of the top of the toilet tank.  This is clean water that is going into the toilet storage tank.  It's spurting out of the top so that you can wash your hands without using more water.

Japanese toilets can be a lot more high tech than the ones we have in the US.  I've come across heated and squishy toilet seats, as well as toilets that make white noise (to cover up any noises that might be made by the person using the toilet). Many public toilets are squat toilets.  This link will help you understand how to use them:

When you enter someone's home, a formal restaurant, or a Ryokan, you will be expected to remove your shoes and put on slippers provided by your host.  Should you visit the restroom, you are should take off your slippers and put on the special pair of bathroom slippers.  This all has to do with keeping things clean; dirt outside the house is dirty, as is the floor in the bathroom.

If you bathe in a common bathroom or at a local bath house, there are a couple of protocols you should follow:

Towels in Japan are very small.  Some how, they are also much more absorbant than towels in the US.  If a towel gets too full of water, just ring it out, and then continue drying yourself.

In Tokyo and Kyoto, fall does not set in until November, with snow not falling until the end of the year.  Spring, with the wonderful cherry blossoms, arrives in late March.  Summer lasts from late May until October and can be very warm and humid.

Japan Rail offers a translation phone line; you will receive information about it with your JR Pass.

JNTO's most useful publication is titled "Your Guide to Japan."  You can request a copy of the guide from the JNTO website:

JNTO used to publish a booklet called "Hello Japan."  It introduces you to Japan, its people, its culture, and life in general.

The embassy and consulate offices are also a source for information about Japan:

Coin operated laundries are readily available throughout Japan. Unlike laundry mats in the US, the ones in Japan are always very clean with equipment in great shape.  Some laundries sell detergent and fabric softener; at others you may need to visit the corner store to get the necessary supplies.  For this reason and in an effort to save your back, I suggest packing as little as possible.